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During blistering winters in Tusheti, temperatures µ·¾Ïµ¿Æ÷ÀåÀÌ»ç regularly fall below -15¡ÆC, and villages on the slopes of the Caucasus Mountains are cut off by metres of snowfall. For centuries before becoming restaurant favourites, khinkali were a warming offering for Caucasus shepherds, with chopped lamb or »ç¹«½ÇÆ÷ÀåÀÌ»ç mutton at the centre, which was replaced by ground beef and pork as the dumpling migrated to the city.
At Tbilisi restaurant Sofia Melnikova¡¯s Fantastic Douqan, chef Lena Ezieshvili ¿ë´ÞÀÌ»ñÁü¼¾ÅÍ makes some of Tbilisi¡¯s most celebrated khinkali from a Tushetian ¸íÇ°ÈĵåƼ=¸íÇ°ÈĵåƼ recipe that mixes seven parts beef to three parts pork, adding coriander, pepper and cumin. Under a vine-covered terrace in a courtyard hidden behind central Tbilisi¡¯s Giorgi Leonidze State Museum of Literature, waitstaff serves them on ramshackle, brightly painted wooden tables.